¡Feliz Cumpleanos Chile! Celebrating 200 Years of History

Riding back on the metro on the 18th, feeling sleepy and fuzzy from a day of drinking and eating at my fifth consecutive asado (BBQ), I felt my heart bursting with love for Chile.  September 18th marks Chile's 200 year independence anniversary and a one day celebration just won't suffice - the country has pretty much declared the entire week a holiday.  It's incredible to walk around and hear people celebrating in their homes and catch the smell of BBQs, see ribbons of flags strung from one house to another and just in general feel the happy buzz that has spread over Chile. 

There is so much pride and excitement in the air, that's it's hard not to be caught up into it all.  Que suerte that I get to share this milestone with Chile.  While I could go on and on, here is a glimpse into some of some of my favorite highlights of Dieciocho as it comes to a close:

1. Unexpectedly dancing the national dance, cueca, in front of everyone at a school assembly
2. Seeing a different side from my talented students who shared their heritage by playing beautiful folk music and dancing in traditional clothing
3. Eating more meat in the last week than I have in the last two years.  I have put seven asados under my expanding belt.  Choripan (sausage in a roll), steak, pork ribs, blood sausage, chicken and my favorite, pino empanadas - I'm like (Wo)Man vs Food, Chile.  I love how they keep their grilling simple with just a wood-stoked grill and sea salt.  I'm convinced it's the only way to grill now.  
4. Flying kites with four-year-olds at a party and watching them run around like little, happy maniacs.  Volantines (kites) are a favorite past time that people of all ages go nuts for and have been decorating the sky this whole week.  The streets are all lined with the shells of fallen kites after losing sky battles or being taken down by an unfortunate power line
5. Discovering that Chileans don't use "arf, arf" as the classic sound description of a dog barking and pondering whether Chilean dogs perhaps roll their tongues when the bark "arrrrrrrrrrf" ;)
6. Seeing babies wearing traditional ponchos and tiny hats.  Who doesn't love tiny hats? 
7. Catching one of the best artificios fuegos (fireworks) shows I've ever seen.  Fireworks shot up from the entire Valparaiso port at once and made the sky look like it was on fire. Perhaps South American fireworks are stronger and have less restrictions but hey, no complaints here
8. Making an impromptu visit to Valpo's ramada (four day party/carnival) to play games (toss the ring on the liquor bottle, pick the winning number for a guinea pig, foosball) and chat about Chile over a pitcher of terremotos (special wine and pineapple ice cream) with new Chilean friends.  Ramadas pretty much go all night long and can be found in most towns
9. Trying my first glass of chicha, a traditional fermented wine
10. Watching a parade of 20 Chilean naval ships tour the harbor from my school
11. Of course putting my cueca lessons to use at almost every asado.  My friend/co-teacher told me it's ok to eat whatever you want as long as you dance one cueca for every piece of meat you eat
12. Learning how to make empanadas.  Be prepared for empanada and wine parties when I return! 
13. Running on the beach with my host mom in order to combat the mucho comida and running into one of few people on the streets post the 18th - another gringa/volunteer, Katie.  ¡Que un mundo pequeno!
14. Hoping on a bus last minute to meet up with my Vina Del Mar girls which resulted in a wild night of dancing and piscolas (pisco and coke)
15. And overall just having hilarious, fascinating and touching conversations with people I've met along the way and have invited me to join their once-in-a-lifetime celebrations. ¡Viva Chile!

My Cueca Performance

Students dancing it up

My host family dancing after muchos bebidas y comida

Fireworks in Valpo

Empanada cooking lessons at my friend/co-teacher's house

Carne, carne and more carne

Asado at Steph's house.  Mmmm choripan

My Guilty Pleasure, Martin Rivas

I am not one to shy away from ridiculous TV.  I admit, I love tuning out the stresses of life and cherishing the ridiculous drama of reality TV.  Housewives of Orange County, Jersey Shore, Rock of Love, The Bachelor - I've watched them all.  And I know I'm not alone (you know who you are).  It's ok to escape reality with not really reality, reality shows.  Funny enough, before I left for Chile, I slowly detoxed from this world, since I didn't have cable or gasp, TIVO.  It was a brave new world but I thought it was good as I was about to make a cultural jump a world away.  Flash to me in Chile - Well, ummmm the TV detox hasn't technically worked.  I actually have satellite TV and watch BBC, HBO (True Blood sooo good) and movies like Karate Kid and 10 Things I Hate About You regularly.  I think it's a welcome relief to hear English after having my brain constantly working overtime with the language barriers.  But there is one Chilean show that has filled the void of my ridiculous and beloved TV drama...Martin Rivas!

Martin Rivas is a Chilean telenovela that has become somewhat of a tradition in my house.  My host father, Antonio and I watch it regularly.  My host mom, as well as many Chileans, aren't fans but this gringa sure is.  It's a period drama that takes place in the 1800s and is focused on the hero of the story, Martin Rivas.  It's a classic struggle of forbidden loves, money and most importantly social classes.  It is based on a classic Chilean novel by Alberto Blest Gana.  Of course mucho goes over my head but how could you not love fake pregnancies (the old pillow tied around the waist trick), moms and daughters fighting for the same man, kidnappings, near death miracles and the eeevil, Clemente (who happens to be Leonor's hubby and wears a leather face mask after he had a tragic accident)?

Always a sucker for a bad boy in a top hat

Oooh that Clemente and his mysterious face mask - always causing trouble

Secret Lovers That's What They Call Us (Martin and his lady friend, Leonor)

Tonight is the ultimo capitulo (final episode) and boy, oh boy I can't wait to see what's in store.  Is the evil Clemente really dead?  Will Martin and Leonor finally be able to declare their love?  Oh the dramz...Thank you, Martin Rivas - it's been a good run.